That Old Piece of Costume Jewelry Could Be Worth Thousands: The Ultimate Guide to Maker’s Marks

We have all seen it: a tangled box of necklaces at a garage sale, a dusty jewelry organizer at an antique shop, or perhaps a forgotten heirloom tucked away in the back of a drawer.

At first glance, these items might appear to be nothing more than “costume jewelry”—fun accessories made of glass and base metal, designed to be worn for a season and then discarded. However, as the image in our ad suggests, appearances can be deceiving.

Hidden within those piles of rhinestones and faux pearls are treasures that could be worth hundreds, or even thousands of dollars. The secret to unlocking this value lies in one specific detail: the Maker’s Mark.

This guide is designed to help you navigate the world of vintage costume jewelry. We will explore what these marks are, where to find them, and which names you should be looking for to turn a thrift store find into a significant financial windfall.

What is “Costume Jewelry”?

Before hunting for marks, it is essential to understand what defines this category. Unlike “fine jewelry,” which is constructed from precious metals (gold, platinum) and precious gemstones (diamonds, sapphires), costume jewelry is made from non-precious materials.

The History of “Faux”

The term “costume jewelry” was popularized in the 20th century. Designers like Coco Chanel championed the idea that jewelry should be a decorative accessory to complete an outfit (a “costume”), rather than just a display of wealth. This shift allowed for bolder, larger, and more artistic designs that weren’t constrained by the cost of materials.

Because these pieces were treated as art and fashion statements, the craftsmanship was often extraordinary. Today, collectors value this artistry and history often more than the intrinsic value of gold or silver.

The Key to Value: Identifying “Maker’s Marks”

As the ad headline states, identifying valuable “Maker’s Marks” is the critical skill for any collector or reseller.

What is a Maker’s Mark?

A maker’s mark (or hallmark) is a stamp, engraving, or tag on a piece of jewelry that identifies the manufacturer, designer, or era of production.

Signatures: The name of the company written out (e.g., “Trifari” or “Miriam Haskell”).
Symbols: A logo, such as a crown, a swan, or initials.
Copyright Symbols: The presence of a © symbol can help date a piece (usually post-1955).
Patent Numbers: Some older pieces include a “Pat. Pend.” (Patent Pending) or a specific number that can be looked up to find the exact year of design.

Where to Look

Finding the mark can be like a treasure hunt in itself. It is rarely in plain sight.

The Clasp: Check the fold-over clasp on necklaces and bracelets.
The Back: On brooches and pins, the mark is almost always on the reverse side.
The Ring Band: Look inside the shank of the ring.
Hang Tags: Some necklaces, particularly from the 1950s and 60s, used a small metal tag hanging near the clasp rather than a stamp on the piece itself.

Pro Tip: Always carry a jeweler’s loupe or a magnifying glass. Many marks are tiny and have been worn down over decades of wear.

Brands That Are Worth “Thousands”

Not all costume jewelry is created equal. While a generic vintage piece might sell for $10, a signed piece from a top-tier designer can sell for $50 to $5,000+. Here are the “Holy Grail” marks to watch for.

1. Trifari (Specifically “Crown Trifari”)

Trifari is one of the most famous American costume jewelry companies.

The Mark: Look for “Trifari” with a small crown symbol above the ‘T’.
The Value: Pieces designed by Alfred Philippe for Trifari in the 1930s and 40s (often mimicking fine jewelry of the era) are highly coveted. Their “Jelly Belly” pins—brooches with clear Lucite centers—can fetch astronomical prices.

2. Miriam Haskell

Miriam Haskell pieces are known for their intricate hand-wiring and seed pearls.

The Mark: Early pieces were unsigned, but later pieces feature a horseshoe-shaped plaque stamped “Miriam Haskell”.
The Value: Because her pieces were handmade and labor-intensive, they are considered wearable art. A complex Haskell bib necklace in excellent condition is a major find.

3. Eisenberg & Sons

Originally a clothing company, Eisenberg began selling jewelry clips with their dresses. The jewelry became so popular they switched focus.

The Mark: “Eisenberg Original” or simply “Eisenberg Ice”.
The Value: They used the highest quality Swarovski crystals and heavy rhodium plating. Their pieces sparkle like real diamonds and command high prices due to their quality and weight.

4. Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was a rival to Chanel and a surrealist artist. Her jewelry is bold, colorful, and eccentric.

The Mark: A script signature “Schiaparelli”.
The Value: Her designs are rare. If you find a piece with her mark, you are likely looking at hundreds or thousands of dollars, especially if it features unusual colored stones or abstract shapes.

5. Coro and Corocraft

Coro was a massive producer, but their high-end line, “Corocraft,” is where the money is.

The Mark: Look for the Pegasus horse icon or the “Coro Duette” patent (pins that could separate into two clips).
The Value: The “Duettes” and their “Jelly Belly” animals are highly collectible.

Condition vs. Mark: Assessing Value

Finding a mark is exciting, but it is only half the battle. As the ad implies, the potential to be worth thousands depends on the piece’s condition.

What to Avoid

Verdigris: Green gunk on the metal or stones. This is a form of rust that eats away at the piece and is often permanent.
Missing Stones: A “dead” stone (one that has lost its foil backing and turned gray) or a missing rhinestone significantly lowers value.
Peeling Plating: If the gold or silver tone is flaking off to reveal the base metal underneath, the value drops.

What to Look For

“En Tremblant”: Parts of the jewelry (like flower petals or wings) are mounted on springs so they tremble when you move. These mechanics increase value.
Bright Plating: Gold tone that still looks rich and shiny.
Original Box: Finding a signed piece in its original velvet box is the ultimate jackpot.

Why “Read More”? The Importance of Research

The image prompts you to “READ MORE” because the world of vintage jewelry is vast. A single article cannot cover every mark. For example, there are un-marked beauties like “Juliana” (DeLizza & Elster) jewelry, which was never signed but is identified by specific construction techniques (like open-backed stones and 5-link construction).

Understanding the nuances of styles (Art Deco vs. Art Nouveau vs. Mid-Century Modern) helps you date a piece even if the mark is obscure.

Conclusion

That “old piece of costume jewelry” sitting in a thrift store bin or your attic might look like cheap plastic and glass to the untrained eye. But armed with the knowledge of Maker’s Marks, you can see past the dust.

The hunt for vintage jewelry is a combination of history, art appreciation, and financial speculation. By learning to identify the signatures of masters like Trifari, Haskell, and Schiaparelli, you transform yourself from a passive observer into a treasure hunter. So next time you see a pile of old brooches, don’t walk past. Pick them up, turn them over, and look for the mark. You might just be holding thousands of dollars in the palm of your hand.

Ready to start your collection or appraise your heirlooms?